The smelt (Osmerus eperlanus (L.)) is easily distinguishable from all other fish by its very characteristic raw cucumber-like aroma. The anadromous smelt occurs in the coastal waters of Latvia, wintering near the river mouths and entering lower reaches of the rivers for spawning. In wintertime as soon as sea coast and rivers are covered by ice some kind of a unique reality show starts. Ice fisherman, penguin-like figures are squatting on the ice and awaiting to catch the golden fish. For some reason nearly all of them are men. They hope for any kind of catch: roach, perch, pike and other fish. But from January to March, at the mouth of the Lielupe, the Venta, the Daugava in downtown Riga (few hundred meters away from the Old Town) and the Gulf of Riga (Baltic Sea), hundreds of ice fishermen are out to catch some smelt. Sometimes the passion for their hobby is awarded with a significant catch. For locals it is not surprising to see them fishing when the snow and ice have already begun to melt. This year as many as 223 ice anglers were trapped on break-away sea ice floes in the Gulf of Riga necessitating a full-scale rescue operation. Luckily such reclesness did not result in drawnings. Since ancient times a similar operation, usually of lesser scale, is typically required annually. Novella In the Shadow of Death (Nāves ēnā) written in 1899 by the famous Latvian writer Rūdolfs Blaumanis is based on a newspaper account of several fishermen lost at sea on an ice floe. The novella portrays the characters of fourteen fishermen and their reactions as they encounter a life-threatening situation on a dwindling ice floe.
The smelts are winter and early spring meal. Most of the smelt recipes on the internet without much variation call for deep frying but I would recommend lighter treatment for the smelts' delicate flesh. Latvian traditionalists would say smelt is best enjoyed hot smoked or pan fried before dipped into the beaten egg and coated with breadcrumbs or flour. My spirit of experimentation led to creation of my fusion dishes, in which recipe (culinary technique) from one country interacts with ingredients from another (usually Latvian local ingredients). Escabeche originated in the Mediterranean and is traditionally prepared with fish from that region, such as sardines and anchovies. Nevetheless mild escabeche is perfect match for bigger size smelts.
1kg smelts
for escabeche:
1 orange1 carrot
5 shallots
2 garlic cloves
5 bay leaves
pink peppercorns and white pepper
allspice
50ml Moscatel white wine vinegar
100ml extra virgin olive oil
few thyme springs
Maldon sea salt
Prepare the fish. There is no need to scale the smelts. Cut off the heads and slit open the belly, leaving the tail intact. Push out the guts and lift out the backbone. Wipe the smelts with a damp cloth, and lay them skin side down on a baking sheet and open out like a butterfly. Season with salt and white pepper. Preheat the oven to 180C. Bake for 5-7 minuts depending on the size of fish. Remove from the baking sheet with spatula on to the serving platter and leave at room temperature.
Prepare the escabeche. Slice the carrot lengthwise, slice shallots into rings, finely slice garlic and grate zest of an orange and squeeze it. Heat the olive oil in the frying pan. Add the carrot, garlic and shallots and sweat over a medium heat for a minute. Add orange juice and zest, vinegar, bay leaves, thyme springs, pink peppercorns and allspice. Bring to the boil and let it bubble for a minute. Take off the heat and leave until cold (room temperature). Pour the escabeche over the smelts, then refrigerate overnight.
Bring the escabeche to room temperature half an hour before serving. Smelts en escabeche pair well with Petit Arvine from Valais and fino or manzanilla sherry.
Prepare the escabeche. Slice the carrot lengthwise, slice shallots into rings, finely slice garlic and grate zest of an orange and squeeze it. Heat the olive oil in the frying pan. Add the carrot, garlic and shallots and sweat over a medium heat for a minute. Add orange juice and zest, vinegar, bay leaves, thyme springs, pink peppercorns and allspice. Bring to the boil and let it bubble for a minute. Take off the heat and leave until cold (room temperature). Pour the escabeche over the smelts, then refrigerate overnight.
Bring the escabeche to room temperature half an hour before serving. Smelts en escabeche pair well with Petit Arvine from Valais and fino or manzanilla sherry.
If you are turning 40 and looking forward to midlife crisis starting reflect your life...don't panic you still can experience thrill of horror angling smelts in a good company on the ice floe adrift in the sea. And if you are lucky enough afterwards prepare smelts en escabeche! Alternatively, smelts are sold at Fish Pavillion of Riga Central Market.
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